April Newsletter - Gretchen in the Philippines

The month of April was yet another one of transitions for me. In the beginning of the month I traveled to Bacolod, Negros Occidental Province to engage in immersions for three weeks before returning to Manila, uniting with the 6 other interns, and participating in an Indigenous Peoples’ awareness program and our group’s reflection in the mountains of Northern Luzon.

The economy on the island of Negros is characterized as mono-crop and agriculturally dependent with sugar cane fields blanketing every corner of the island. A highly labor-intensive crop to plant, grow, and harvest, sugar cane and the exploitive landlessness for farmers inspires the saying “the sweeter the sugar, the more bitter the farmers.” The farmers that I stayed with were subject to the Pakyao system in which work is organized and payment given on a three-day basis, precariousness of subsistence living, when work is only promised for three days at a time, and of course the pay cannot sustain most families. With the recent rice crisis, the grip of poverty squeezes already struggling families to severe proportions. When I arrived in August the price of rice was 25 pesos per kilo, yet amidst the instability of food on a global level the price has risen to more 35 pesos per kilo, a 40% increase as seen worldwide. The average family of six consumes one and a half kilos of rice per day, leaving little money of the meager pay left for other food, educational expenses for children, and other necessities. I witnessed the intensity of physical labor needed for harvesting sugar cane, which occurs at the end of the eight-month growing period. Farmers covered with layers of clothing to shield themselves from the damaging “summer” sun chop cane at the base with a large machete, or bolo as it is called, with an eight-inch section often saved for the next planting. The stalk and leaves are separated with the stalks then bundled with a long piece of rubber and carried up a long plank into a massive dumptruck. Farmers on the truck wait with bolos to chop the sugar cane into smaller pieces to fit more crop until the truck seems to be dangerously overloaded for transport to the sugar mill. As with the rest of the country, the profit from agriculture mostly benefits the landowners holding vast tracts of land while those who till reap no advantages. Having spent so much time in the Philippines within the urban context, I was able to witness the struggles that the majority of the population who live in the rural areas encounter.

In addition to the immersion with the farmers, I integrated with three different organizations focusing on youth in Bacolod. Anak Bayan is the national organization focused on youth, which actually encompasses ages from 14 to 35. Much of the attention and advocacy lies along educational lines since graduation from high school in the rural areas is attained by a minority. The quality of education from the public schools is generally poor with lack of funding and overworked teachers who are burdened with the bureaucracy of national reports and are often taken away from their classes for extracurricular activities occurring during the school day. Beyond high school, the exorbitant costs of higher education allow only about 1 in 10 Filipinos to graduate from college. And of course a diploma does not ensure a job with unemployment widespread; the alternative is working as an Oversees Filipino Worker (OFW), which can disjoint families. I observed the summer camp held by Iglesia Filipino Independiente, or Philippine Independent Church. IFI has a nationalistic theology since it sprung from the Philippine Revolution and was established in 1902 in opposition to the Spanish as well as the Roman Catholic Church. The majority of tenants from the Roman Catholic Church were retained though IFI priests can marry. The priests I met were among the most inspiring churchworkers I’ve encountered in the country with many holding leadership positions in progressive organizations in addition to their clerical duties. The summer camp for youth was one part church camp, one part cultural celebration, and one part education of national struggles. Rather than simply encouraging youth to lead theologically-centered lives, IFI realizes the strong ties of the church to the country and demands working for the improvement of Philippines run parallel to the self. The summer camp was not a free-for-all but an enriching experience for the youth who I hope will continue in service. Lastly, I attended another summer camp geared toward youth hosted by Gabriela, an organization and political party (of the multi-partylist system) with the moto Babae, Bata, at Bayan, or Women, Children, and Country. In line with IFI’s approach, Gabriela hosted seminars for the youth on violence against women, nutrition, and the national situation. The summer camp was an opportunity for children from the rural parts to enjoy a couple days at the coast but was also a tool in educating the masses not yet engaged in the political scene.

My host family in Bacolod, Siegfred and Cynthia DeDuro, provided me the opportunity to witness as I have before the sacrifice that goes into serving the people. Both Siegfred and Cynthia were detained under Marcos’ dictatorship, and during that time their daughter was sent to the U.S. with a relative, eventually being adopted and continuing to live there. I enjoyed hearing their stories as well as their willingness to welcome me into their home, if even for a short time. Despite the positive relations I made during my time in Bacolod, many aspects were quite difficult. There was a lack of warning that I was coming to Bacolod, and though people scrambled and provided the best schedule they could for my time, in many ways the lack of preparation did not allow people to understand why I was there. Without the tools to communicate effectively what I wanted to learn (I don’t speak the local dialect of Ilonggo and many people in the rural areas speak little English) many lapses in understanding occurred. The time there was relatively short though and following the three weeks, I was yet again joyfully reunited with the other interns, eager to be enveloped with understanding that many of the cultural struggles I have experienced others know all too well; they also know how hard it really is.

We all headed to “the north” as it is called for Indigenous Peoples’ Cordillera Day via 24+ hours of land travel. As one might guess travel by bus and jeepney here is always full of surprises; fording rivers, riding on unpaved roads, and winding around treacherous turns were in the making. The theme of “Cordi” Day was “Resist Mining Plunder and State Terrorism,” appropriate since gold and copper deposits abound in the mountains in Northern Luzon. As with many other money making operations involving transnational corporations in the country, state terrorism is utilized as a means to quell any opposition. The most enjoyable aspect of Cordi Day for me was the celebration of culture. Before and after every session or seminar, men pounded rhythmically on metal drums that resemble a frying pan called pattong while the women danced in a large circle in time with the movements of the men who initiate the various steps. During one morning session, people danced more than six times, ever excited to engage in traditional culture and invite other Filipinos and foreigners to do the same. On solidarity day, elders of various tribes donned their native dress, different styles for men and women though of the same tightly woven colored cloth specific to their region, and enacted plays for interpretation of their situation as Indigenous People struggling for self-determination. At one point the women initiated the dancing by playing the pattong themselves, symbolic of women in the community and in the struggle together with the men.

Our third reflection was held in the quaint, quiet town of Sagada in Mountain Province (aptly named). In many ways, Sagada felt as if another world apart from the Philippines that I had been exposed to. To find of place of beauty and serenity often means turning to a resort-type area in which many of the establishments are supported by foreign funds and run by ex-patriots. Sagada does rely partly on the tourist economy but is run and operated by natives of the area. In opening the town up to tourism, the community refused to forgo their way of life and in doing so keeps strict rules on public conduct, e.g. 9 pm curfew. The result is foreigners can enjoy Sagada for the same reasons the inhabitants love their town without a degradation of culture occurring. I was so pleased to be in the mountains in the coldest temperature I had experienced yet in the country with the lows probably in the 50s; 90-degree weather year-round has worn on me. In addition to the settings, our group was able to reflect over the past few months, supporting and encouraging each other with what lies in the future.

As many of you know, this will be the last newsletter I will be writing from the Philippines. After much discernment, I have decided that I will return home to Ohio shortly rather than remaining in the country until August. This of course has been a difficult and rather long process to come to this decision, but I feel it is the best for me now. Throughout the past months, I have been amazed at the support I have received from so many of you. In many ways, it has kept me continuing in this difficult journey as long as I have. But I know my time here has come to close. I am thankful for all the communiqués, the prayers, and even those silent feelings of encouragement I have received. I look forward to sharing more individually about my experience in the coming months and maybe even years as I continue to process and allow those inexplicable lessons to become clear. Peace.